Smiler – Photo Ian Smith

Welcome to the May eNewsletter

Quick links within the Newsletter:

• Committee Lines
• Meets and Meet Report
• Hut News & A Fact About CGM
• Guidebook News

Robertson Lamb Hut
We have been informed by the RLH Bookings Sec, that building work is scheduled to take place at RLH and that the current plan is to close the hut from Monday to Thursday nights every week from Easter to the end of June.

A Tribute to Smiler (Dave) Cuthbertson
When I took over the Web Site in 2007 it coincided with Smiler becoming our President. I soon realised what a unique, supportive and at times impulsive man he was. Over the following years I got to know him well but sadly not climbing. Below are tributes from two members who knew him both as a friend and climbing leader. He will be sadly missed. View a selection of FaceBook messages.

Tony Scott

Sadly, my old pal Dave Cuthbertson (“Smiler”) has passed away. His death came suddenly on Thursday 2nd May after being admitted to hospital with Pneumonia, and subsequent evidence of Lung Cancer. He died within a week of admission.

I met Smiler when I joined the Wolverhampton M.C. in the late 1960s. It was like meeting a bouncy young dog, full of energy, enthusiasm, and friendliness to all. His nickname says everything.

We were regular climbing partners throughout the ‘70s in Wales, Scotland and the Alps, and shared some of my best experiences in the mountains.

He was Chairman of the Wolverhampton M.C, later becoming President of the Climbers’ Club, and a stalwart of the Alpine Climbing Group. All who met him delighted in his company, and he will be sorely missed by myself and all in the climbing world who knew him.

Dave Wilkinson

Smiler on Gaustaspøkelse , a really nice WI4 in the lower Rjukan gorge – Photo Peri Strachchino

I have so many memories of Smiler it’s difficult to know where to start. My first contact with him was as a non CC guest of one of his ice fests. After joining the CC I got to know him much better as I got stitched up into being his sidekick to help organise the ice meets. Smiler’s enthusiasm was amazing, I remember one year he took a big lob, he thought he had probably cracked a rib, but carried on climbing the rest of the week.

Smiler on Gaustaspøkelse , a really nice WI4 in the lower Rjukan gorge – Photo Peri Strachchino

He was a fantastic person for a novice ice climber like me to team up with, you could tell the years of experience in his ability to keep an eye on things without ever being smothering, all accompanied by the trademark huge grin at the top of every route. As well as the trademark smile, another Smiler ism every Rjukan regular will remember is Smiler’s beloved airport doss. This involved avoiding an alpine start for Gardemoen by stealthily bedding down overnight on the benches at the airport pizza cafe, Smiler tucked up half undressed in his sleeping bag with sunglasses on to keep the airport lights out of his eyes. At the first sign of a poor forecast for the airport travel Smiler would gleefully propose the doss, I think the truth is he just enjoyed the game.

Plans are being made for a CC Memorial event to remember Smiler later this Summer – details to follow.

Peri Strachchino

Committee Lines

President’s Notes:

After a cool start to the month the weather is warming up and I am looking forward to getting away. To Lewis for the first week of June then down to the Lakes for the joint meet with the FRCC.

Smiler Cuthbertson
The club lost another of its characters when Smiler Cuthbertson died on the 2nd of May. Smiler was very active in the club over years, taking on many roles, including president from 2007-10. He will be remembered for his enthusiasm, energy and friendship. There is a thread on UKC that many have contributed to, showing what a popular person he was.

Complete list of CC members
This does not exist, but it would form an interesting and useful part of the club’s history. The lists at the back of the handbook show past presidents, vice-presidents, secretaries, treasurers and honorary members, but we do not have details of the people who over the years have taken on all the other roles that made the club function. Rob Seymour has put together a list of hut custodians, but that is only a part of the record. We have copies of the members’ handbooks in the archive, which would give us a list of members since the club’s foundation. This would not be a quick project but it would be interesting and very useful. If you would like to take this project on contact Hilary or me.

Llanberis Tradfest
This sadly has been cancelled, the tickets were not selling in the numbers needed to make it viable. I do not know why, perhaps the activity around the BMC international meet on the same weekend had an impact. I hope it runs next year.

Huts
Rob’s report gives the details, but we owe the HMSC people a vote of thanks for the work to sort out the replacement of the septic tanks at the Count House and the Downes which are currently or imminently being installed.

Vic Odell – President

New Applications

Applications are under consideration for the following:

Members wishing to comment on any candidate are asked to contact the Membership Secretary, Andy Cairns, 31 Balmoral Drive, Timperley, Altrincham, WA14 5AQ. Tel:0161 969 8507 or by e-mail to: membership@climbers-club.co.uk

Meets and Meet Report

Hi all,

A busy month ahead meets wise. With the Lewis, Glen Brittle and Jamming meets all full and with waiting lists, if anyone is considering dropping out of any of these can they please let the organisers know in advance so that others may have their place.

Also, with meets filling up quite quickly, it would be a good idea to book up now for other meets you may be considering so as not to be disappointed.

Meets coming up shortly and with spaces left include:

• David Linnett’s Roaches Meet 7 to 9th June details …
• Deborah Marsh’s Joint FRCC/CC Langdale Meet 14-15th June details …

Various others coming up, rather than me list them all here why not have a look at the Meets Program …

Peri Stracchino – Meets Secretary

CC/PC joint meet Count House May 2019
The meet had moved from its usual July spot and numbers were always going to be lower because the usual suspects were away or working, but at the last minute a flood of apologies came in with various reasons; bad backs, bruised toes, essay deadlines etc. One poor soul did arrive but then left early with bad back syndrome after driving for 8 hours non-stop. In the end around 15 of us (with day visitors) enjoyed mainly good weather with chilly winds for the week. It was always warm at sea level; you just had to be cunning belaying out of the wind on top. The usual venues were all visited; nuts were thrown in the sea at Chair Ladder; Bosigran was festooned with abandoned gear (Bob Watson and I both came away with rescued (good condition) cams on different days); and Mr B sat at the top of different crags (Sennen, Pendeen Watch) waiting for his human to return.

In all 11 different crags had visits including Carn Barra (Ra and Axis), Bosigran Ridge (Gallipoli – not the pushover it used to be or the leader was older and heavier), Pen Olver (rain stopped play), Porthgwarra on a very lively tide day, this visit included checking out a new route report but we weren’t sure we found the black schorls – we did find a rabbit hole exit. Roy also found Monolith and Brandy Cove having gone up and down the coast path somewhat. We had a mass trip to the Radjel for the quiz night (one of our teams came second but without our attendance there would only have been three teams!), and it, and the Gurnards Head had several visits in the week. The Rosemergy tea room had one team visit but the main venue for cream teas was the Count House where for a contribution of £1.50 you got one or unlimited scones, clotted cream and jam for the week.

Details and photos …

Val Hennelly

Hut News & A Fact About CGM

Key Lending to Non-Members
The regulations state that “keys must never be loaned to non-members so they can visit a hut without being accompanied by the key owner.” This applies to all visits, of whatever nature, to our huts, not just overnight use – also parking, camping, day use, toilets, shower facilities, etc. The recent fire at FRCC Brackenclose in Wasdale should remind us all how vulnerable huts are: they are generally not near habitation and the pattern of use is intermittent. Unathorised use by non-members invalidates the buildings insurance cover and the repercussions could be disastrous.

Any member found lending their key to a non-member in contravention of the regulations will be reported by HMSC to the Club Secretary with a recommendation that the key fob is immediately cancelled as a minimum.

Helyg
The First World War roughly halved the 350 members of the Club and it was wondered by some whether it should be wound up. George Mallory, then President, would not accept this outcome and with Raymond Greene identified Helyg as a base in North Wales from which the Club could recover and grow. Helyg was the Club’s first hut and was acquired ninety-four years ago this month, in May 1925. With the approaching centenary of Helyg as a Club hut, we are discussing ideas to refurbish it and improve the amenities for the benefit of all members and to ensure it continues to be a base for the Club for the next hundred years.

Ynys Ettws
From Sunday 12th to Sunday 19th May, the BMC International Meet is being held at Ynys Ettws. The BMC has booked both Ynys Ettws and Cwm Glas Mawr exclusively for the duration of the meet. Between the dates above, please do not turn up at Ynys Ettws expecting to park or to use either of the huts in the Llanberis Pass. You can’t park there, stay there, use the hut amenities or camp there unless you happen to be one of the BMC International Meet hosts (many Club members are). The International Meets are a big part of the BMC’s programme, and are important to both the BMC and to the Club as they promote British Trad Climbing both at home and abroad. We hope the event is a great success and look forward to hearing about the meet soon.

A fire safety inspection was conducted by the Fire Brigade. Geoff Bennett has received the inspection report and drawn HMSC’s attention to a number of concerns. HMSC will respond to these issues in a timely manner. In particular, we need to improve the emergency lighting and fire doors surrounding the kitchen/ cooking area. The emergency lighting work was completed immediately before the BMC International Meet began.

Vic Odell, Roger Withers and Graham Townsend met with Geraint Efans to discuss the final detailed specifications for the proposed rebuild/refurbishment project. The specification is being converted into an invitation to tender. Any Club member with appropriate contracting and building credentials, and/or project management capabilities, is invited to express interest in the invitation to tender.

We hope to have responses to the invitation to tender, including costings for the project, by July. In view of the imminence of the potential rebuild/refurbishment, we may be able to defer some of the fire safety works highlighted above if the rebuild/refurbishment commences shortly, but otherwise we will need to invest in the fire safety work anyway.

Cwm Glas Mawr
Kenny Atherton has completed the tree work to clear the branches from over the roof. As noted above, Cwm Glas Mawr is fully booked for the duration of the BMC International Meet.

RO Downes
Graham Titterton and Dave Viggers have been working on an external power supply and tool store in readiness for the upgrade of the sewage treatment plant and soak away, which starts in June. As noted in my last newsletter, the hut and the parking area will be completely closed to all members and visitors in June for the duration of the works. The dates of closure will be advertised on the Club Website and Facebook group.

Riasg and Grange Old School
Nothing to note this month.

May Cottage
An electrician has been instructed to install improved emergency lighting and magnetic fire door closers at the hut to improve fire safety.

The Japanese knotweed is back and will be chemically treated. The problem is ongoing, but gets slightly less bad each year. The main problem is next door, we don’t know whether this is being addressed.

The Count House
Work on the new soak away and sewage treatment plant began as planned on 29th April and will complete during the week commencing 13th May. Once operational, the temporary restriction of 25 hut users in total will be lifted and the hut will be back up to capacity of 37.

Val Hennelly’s Joint Club/Pinnacle Meet was held at the hut in early May and it was extremely useful to have people at the hut every day to assist the contractors with access and to keep an eye on the work as it progressed.

Dave Viggers, Graham Townsend, Bob Watson and I installed the new metal gate and posts on the path down to the crag, replacing the old wooden gate and posts which had rotted out. The perimeter fence has been dismantled and we have a quotation from a contractor to erect a stock-proof (three strand barbed wire) fence, place recovered granite gateposts on the corner points of our perimeter as permanent markers and to extend the frontage of traditional Cornish hedge along the road and at other places around the boundary. The stone and other material required for the hedging will be recovered from within our own boundary so the work should be relatively inexpensive. Any Club member with appropriate fencing and Cornish hedging credentials is invited to express interest in quoting for this work if they wish. We have agreed that the barbed wire fence will be placed some way inside our actual boundary, it will keep the cattle away from the parts of the site we want kept clear –access driveways, parking area, camping area, path toward the crag, rear terrace, new treatment plant and soak away, bicycle storage area and gas tank. Beyond these areas, there is no reason to stop the cattle grazing if they want to, it will open the ground and improve biodiversity.

Rob Seymour – Chair HMSC

J.H. Emlyn Jones (President 1966-69) and Cwm Glas Mawr

Martin Sinker has provided the following information:
During 1968, the last full year of Emlyn’s presidency, the Committee minutes refer a number of times to the auction of the freehold of Cwm Glas by “the successors of the Vaynol Estate”, and to Emlyn’s involvement in valuations and negotiations, using his considerable professional expertise (free, of course). Then the 21st September 1968 minutes report as follows:

‘The President had arranged for successful bidding at the Auction of the freehold of Cwm Glas. The price paid was £230. The President had written to the Secretary in the following words: “When my term of Presidency comes to an end next February, I should have been a member of the Club for 30 years. The happiness which this has given me is something which is quite impossible to measure but I certainly formed the most lasting friendships of my life through the Club. I would, therefore, like to show recognition by making a present to the Club of the Cwm Glas freehold and I have told Richard (Morgan, Treasurer) of my intention. I hope the Club will accept this”’

Archivist’s note: Emlyn Jones, who passed away in 2014, had an extraordinary life with achievements in many different fields. See the obituary in the 2015-16 CCJ.

Guidebook News

Progress continues on preparing a new CC Baggy and Culm Coast guide in the new colour topo style to replace part of the 1986 North Devon and Cornwall guide. This will cover not only the adventurous trad sea cliff climbing but also the many locals’ secret bouldering haunts. The guide will have the most up-to-date information on access and which routes have had their fixed gear recently replaced.

A second volume to cover from Godrevy to Boscastle, is expected in 2020/21.

The PSC is looking for more page setters for the CC Publications Guidebooks, Journal, etc. Training, hardware and applications will be provided. If you want to take part please contact the PSC.

Nigel Barry – Secretary PSC

That is this month.

Tony Scott – Web Manager

We have been inform that our member Richard Hills sadly passed away peacefully on 10th May 2019 at Willow Wood Hospice, Ashton-Under-Lyne, Manchester. We offer our condolences to his family and friends.

His Funeral will take place on Tuesday 4th June at St Michaels and All Angels Church, Mottram SK14 61B at 12:30pm then at Dukinfield Crematorium at 2pm.

All are welcome at both services and after at Dukinfield Masonic Hall.

Viktor Kamb (Sweden) on Pull my Daisy, Llanberis Slate Quarries

The biennial BMC International Summer Meet came to North Wales and we were blessed with brilliant weather for the week, which made such a difference. The Brits were sometimes overheard to declare it too hot to climb in the sun and the guests were continually reminded that they were experiencing quite abnormal conditions. People were spread out well between the mountains and coast most days and we didn’t get any rain until Friday morning when, ironically, it continued to rain on Anglesey and the Pass dried out. We welcomed 22 men and women from as far as India, Japan and South Africa and the Club was well represented, with 17 CC members out of the 25 UK hosts.

The abilities and experience of the guests were wide-ranging, some working in the Severe-VS range, while others went straight onto E3s. We followed the usual BMC formula of changing partners after two days, so everyone got to know at least three people well. Rhoscolyn and Dinas Cromlech seemed to be the most popular crags, with numerous ascents of Savage Sunbird, The Sun, Mask of the Red Death, Centrefold and Trail of Tears at the former and Cenotaph Corner, Cemetery Gates, Foil, Resurrection, Left and Right Walls at the latter. Other teams went for link-ups in Ogwen, sun and shade in the Pass, classics at Tremadoc/slate/Gogarth and Cloggy saw an invasion in the middle of the week – Shrike, November, Great/Bow combination, Great Wall – all dry. Some teams even managed to fit in Crib Goch and Snowdon, ice creams at Beaumaris and the beach at Criccieth for an all-round North Wales holiday experience.

Taking a lead from the 2016 Women’s International Climbing Meet, the evening meals were mostly based at the excellent Cafe Caban in Brynrefail, with breakfast on site in the marquee. The guests from South Africa, Croatia and Kazakhstan whetted our appetites for trips abroad with slide shows from their home countries, while Emma Twyford’s final Friday night talk perhaps inspired us all to try a little harder. The Saturday night party at the hut saw us all eating paella, dancing to the brilliant Banda Bacana, followed by some hard-core table rolling around the unhelpfully large table in the hut.

All in all, a brilliant week of climbing and sociability. Special mention must go to Ynys Custodian Geoff Bennett, who not only did the extra jobs on top of his normal duties (changing the locks, being there for the marquee team, sorting electrical and sewage problems), but also was a host climber every day and managed to get round the table on the last night!

Thanks to Geoff Bennett, Chris Karanikas, Steve Montebello and Hilary Lawrenson for the photos.

Hilary Lawrenson

The Downes Hut and parking area will be closed between the 3rd and 22nd June for the installation of the new sewage treatment plant and soak away and for the Jamfest Meet the weekend of 21-23rd.

Please note that the Midland Association of Mountaineers Hut Star Cottage, Sydnope Hill, Two Dales, Derbyshire, DE4 2FN is available to members under our reciprocal agreement. Details of access … for logged in members.

It was too cold and windy for the wee bastards, the meet commencing with a wet and windy weekend. This put a dampener on many people’s spirits and plans with more than a dozen deciding it was not worth making the trip at all. But as is often the way in the Western Isles, the poor forecast for the rest of the week proved to be overly pessimistic. Those optimists who persevered and took the risk of taking the ferry across were rewarded with some fine weather between the rain showers.

The scenery on the west coast of Lewis is spectacular and the climbing on the sea cliffs rather fine too. Most teams managed to climb on most days. The climbs done were too many to list here. Once again, Alice Irmak Thompson and climbing partner Tom Stewart led the way with numerous E4s and E5s, climbing from dawn to dusk on more than one day. I vaguely remember having similar levels of energy and enthusiasm, once upon a time. Paul Drew and partner Barbara along with Dave Rumney also deserve mention for squeezing in an ascent of The Old Man of Stoer on their way to Lewis. The mountain crags were out of the question due to the inclement weather and will have to wait for a return trip.

It wasn’t all climbing. The ornithologists amongst us were rewarded with several sightings of golden and white tailed eagles, red throated divers and numerous moorland birds including the dreaded corncrake (seldom seen but often heard all night long). Those of a historical bent had much to see too, including the late Neolithic Callanish stones and the Blackhouses. There were a number of pleasant cafes to visit. Needless to say we made ample use of their offerings!

All the meet participants deserve a mention for their stoical optimisim in making the trip despite the initial poor weather. They were:

• Vic Odell (Il Presidente)
• Myself (I’m never volunteering again) and long suffering partner Lun
• Tim Whitaker (expert midge forecaster and pub locater)
• Paul Drew with partner Barbara
• Murray and Dave Rumney(the old men and woman of Stoer)
• Paul Fleuriot(no dancing on this trip) and Elaine(fell runner extraordinaire)
• George Gilmore (retired early with Golfer’s Elbow, serves him right for playing golf)
• Ted Rogers and Christine (winners of the tidiest van competition)
• Kevin Stephens ( ooh me back hurts I think I’ll go kayaking instead) and Maggie McPherson
• Alice Irmak Thompson and Tom Stewart (the A Team)
• Paul Wood and Morag (team physio)
• Martin Kocsis (Prozac Man) and Sarah Jane
• Dave The Fisherman and his demijohns of mead
• Lewis Preston (recovering from frostbite but there had to be a Lewis on Lewis) and Bryn Roberts
• Coel Hellier (need a new planet? Coel’s your man.)
• Nevil Hewitt (the Baltic business man)
• Mark Hounslea (scouse raconteur par excellence)
• Chris Callow and Harold Walmsley (If it doesn’t move put a bolt in it)
• And last but not least, hip op happy Colin Struthers (the Gordon Ramsay of the climbing world)

Pete Johnson

Sadly, our great friend Smiler passed away on 2^nd May.

To celebrate his life in the mountains, we invite all his friends to an evening of illustrated talks and a buffet meal.

Date: ​​Saturday 10th August

Time:​​ 6pm

Place: ​The Celtic Royal Hotel, Bangor Street, Caernarfon, LL55 1AY).

Booking:​ Book online

Cost:​ ​£15.90 including tea/coffee on arrival and buffet meal.

The Celtic has a big room (c. 200 people). Due to Smiler’s popularity and large circle of friends, we expect many to come, so book early to avoid disappointment!All who knew Smiler are invited. Please book.

First come, first served. Please book before 25^th July.

The Celtic has ample car parks, but being a town centre location, an electronic permit system operates. No barriers, you just park your car, go to reception and type in your registration number. The hotel is an old establishment with a quaint feeling of Victoriana. It also has a big bar, and comfortable lounges for just sitting and chilling.

If you wish to stay the night at the Celtic, we have been offered discounted nightly rates of:

• £115 per room for single/double/twin rooms (compared with the current internet price of £161)
• £126 for a triple room
• £137 for a family room (2 adults + 2 children)

Book rooms direct with the hotel on 01286 674477 or reservations@celtic-royal.co.uk quoting “Smiler’s Wake”. In case of problems ask for “Sian”.

If you prefer budget accommodation CC & Kindred Club members may book our North Wales huts. For others who may have difficulty finding a hut which will take bookings from individuals, I may be able to help. Contact Dave Wilkinson on davidwilkinson.1@live.co.uk or 0121 358 3391.

Book online …

Participant members & guests Andy Chubb, Nick Gregory, Paul Scott, Debbie Marsh, Cathy Woodhead, David Medcalf, Peri Stracchino, Alison Cairns, Andy Cairns, Mike Hammill, Maddy Raven, Alison Athroll, Ian Athroll, Clair Wilson, Colin Densem, Geoff Der, Steve Woollard

The Meet was very successful in spite of mixed weather. Only one day was completely washed out, but as this was the last full day of the meet most people packed up and left a day early.

The Meet was based in the excellent BMC/MCofS Glen Brittle Memorial Hut which is dedicated to the memory of climbers and mountaineers who lost their lives in war. The Hut was built over 50 years ago and has been regularly modified and modernised by successive management committees – its facilities bear favourable comparison with most Club huts.

Activities on the Meet were many and varied – rock climbing in Coire Lagan, scrambling on and traversing various sections of the Ridge, bog-trotting on the coastline, mountain biking in Glen Brittle Forest and on the Isle of Raasay, touring and hill climbing in the Quiraing, Storr and Portree areas and rock climbing on the sea cliffs at Neist and on the Elgol Peninsula.

Many thanks to Peri Stracchino for ‘organising’ the mixed activities – her hard-earned NVQ in Herding Cats certainly paid off – and thanks also to the BMC/MCofS Hut Management Committee for creating such a great base camp in Glen Brittle.

David Medcalf

After what felt like an eternity of rain across the UK, the sun finally came out and provided us with perfect weather for the weekend. The Downes hut was freshly opened after building works, and we were all set to go. There were a few ‘minor’ rule changes for the format this year, which resulted in some teams (you know who you are) getting a little serious. Let the fun begin…

Teams spread far and wide, some more than others, and there was much secrecy about plans. We kicked off at 10am (ish) and set off in search of jamming points. Sometime around 6pm onwards, the teams returned to compare spoils. Oh my word. Chris Moran and his ringer friend Ed ran all day to as many crags as they could (nine!) and climbed as much as time would allow. Surely must be in the lead! Not to be, Jenny DeHoxar and Flavio took an alternative approach and climbed everything (29 routes) on local crags, finishing on Cave Crack (!) and pipped Chris and Ed by a handful of points. A mighty effort.

Other teams of Jim Walton and Andy also put in a fine and competitive showing, as did the South West contingent of Bob Peters, Will Hornby and Arlo. Sheffield team of Paul Winder, Mun Leung and Nigel Bassam were very close on their heels. The rest of us mere mortals took a perhaps more leisurely approach and had a fantastic day out.

Back at the hut, a fine spread of food was very kindly supplied by Jenny and Astrid, which was most necessary and enjoyed by all. Thanks very much both for that, much appreciated.

Strangely, some teams then went out again the next day tick off more jamming routes. Masochists. Other teams took advantage of the good weather to enjoy a more sedate approach to climbing.

Thanks very much all for making it a great weekend, and I look forward to seeing many of you next year when there will be more routes and almost certainly another change in format…

Attendees: Peri Strachiano; Rikki Price; Mark Kemball; Dave Viggers; Terry Fletcher; Bob Peters & Arlo; Astrid Saxby; Andy Saxby; Philippa Saxby; Will Hornby; Paul Winder; Mun Leung; Ray Sharples; Keith Turton; Chris Moran & Ed; Jenny DeHoxar & Flavio; Jim Walton & Andy; Graham Titterton

Graham Titterton

Photos by: Mark Kemball, Jim Walton, Bob Peters, Paul Winder.

The weather forecast was not good for the weekend meet of the Climbers’ Club and the Fell and Rock Climbing Club at Rawhead in Langdale. The hut was fully booked and this was proving to be a very popular meet. So it was lucky that a few members dropped out. But regardless of the weather there were 32 optimistic people present on this very sociable meet.

Saturday morning greeted us with rain and very very long discussions about where would be the best places to climb, with a few experienced souls deciding it was a no goer. The maybe foolish decided to give it a go with Alison Cairns, Hazel Jonas and Andy Cairns making a very successful attempt at Wallow Barrow Crag. Ray Sharples and Simon Hitchens (who had driven up all the way from Bristol and wasn’t going to waste a day in the Lakes not climbing) went to Kendal Wall and then Hodge Close. Paul Scott, Steve Crosley, Peri Stracchino, Steve Jenkins, Peter Jones, Keith and Fiona Sanders, Dave Clark and Rob Stone decided to stay local and climbed on Raven Crag and Gimmer. I decided to go Wainwright bagging with Cath Sanders, not realising that she had already completed one round and now was on her second. Dave Jones and Roger Withers escaped to the climbing wall and Charlie and Emma went mountain biking. Everyone else drifted into Ambleside by bike, foot or on the Bus.

The afternoon brought glorious sun shine and preparations for the evening celebration of Peri’s birthday and a buffet where everyone brought a dish. This was fantastic, with so many great dishes and so much food. It was a great party.

Sunday morning brought little hope of anything happening with heavy rain. Some went home, many went to the climbing wall at Kendal and Alison, Andy, Ray and Simon got lucky and managed to climb. This was a mix and match meet for those that wanted and this was a great opportunity for climbers and walkers to meet each other from both clubs.

Deborah Marsh

Count House Boiler is leaking.

The boiler at the hut is leaking and will probably need replacing as the cost of repairing it (again, it was extensively repaired in 2017) is likely to be excessive.

If you are staying at the hut, you will need to top the pressure up from time to time. If the pressure is too low, the boiler won’t fire up. It should be at about 1.0 bar (displayed on LCD panel).

Instructions to top the pressure up:

1. Remove the front panel of the boiler (it is propped on, not fixed, to make this easier.
2. Inside, facing you, is a vertical silver hose with black plastic taps at the bottom (TAP A) and the top (TAP B).
3. Open TAP A first (bottom tap).
4. Open TAP B (top tap).
5. Watch the pressure increase on the LCD panel – it only takes a few seconds to get to about 1 bar.
6. Close TAP B.
7. Close TAP A.
8. Replace the front panel.

The rate of loss will depend to some extent on how much use is being made of the boiler, so you will just have to check it in the morning and the evening and act accordingly.

Remember Jack’s job in The Shining?

Rob Seymour – Custodian and HMSC Chair

Please Note: These tide tables will cease at the end of 2019 – beyond or for more locations around the world please use the new page …

Use this page to explore tide tables covering UK coastal climbing areas. Choose the Location, Month, and Year below, then click the Show Tides button to see the monthly tide table for that location.

• All times are calculated using GMT/UTC; add one hour to results between end March to end October.
• The tidal variations in and around the Isle of Wight/Solent area can be difficult to predict due to the influence of the island. For Totland Bay, Portland and Swanage areas in particular, the notes below might be worth reading.

Latest Guidebook Information

Downloadable update to the 2008 guide:
Lundy_Update 2018

Visit eShop … for the latest guidebooks – South Devon, Dartmoor, West Cornwall and Avon Gorge.

Other Tide Information Services

Admiralty Easy Tide and Tide Times provide UK and worldwide coverage. Free tidal predictions and information services are available for 527 UK and Irish locations, plus many other worldwide locations.

Notes on Tidal Variations in the Isle of Wight/Solent Area

From a climber’s perspective the normal expectation is that there will be two high tides and two low tides within any 24 hour period. The time between high tides being somewhere between 12 – 13 hours apart and the pattern being roughly sinusoidal as shown in the following profile.

Normal tide profile showing obvious 2 high and 2 low tides for Holyhead

The resultant tide table is quite straightforward…

For some locations in the area around the Isle of Wight, tidal streams are modified by the island and these ‘standing’ tides can increase the duration of high water. In a nutshell, low tides might not be as low as you’d like, nor as long as you’d like, and you might find yourself with wet feet! From a climber’s point of view, this affects the Needles, Portland, and Swanage areas.

Standing tide profile (for Totland Bay) showing much less distinct high & low tides for Totland Bay

The tides shown in this graph are much more confusing. Clearly some care is required when looking at a tide table which has more than the normal 2 high and 2 low tides in 24 hours. Particular attention should be payed to the height columns since these will indicate the real periods of high and low water.

A few weeks ago I received an e-mail from Zoe Brown, Joe Brown’s daughter with this distressed message:

‘At some point about 20? years ago Dad lost track of his collection of black and white negatives which includes all his photographs from 1948 to probably the early 1970s. The Rock and Ice members were all in the habit of loaning their pictures out for people to copy for books etc but he has no idea as to where or who might have them, and our efforts to track them down have been unsuccessful. We are obviously hoping that they are still out there somewhere but are now at a loss. Very miserably most of the prints that would have come from them are now gone along the way as well. So we were wondering if there might be someway of publicising “The Hunt for Joe Brown’s lost negatives” in the hope that it might jog someone’s memory. Dad would obviously dearly love to get them back. And from a historic point of view, as Dad is now 89, it would be fantastic to get the stories behind the pictures before the opportunity is gone. They were last seen contained in a bound negative folder. Thanks’.

Zoe has been for some years been working on the archives and a biography of the great Joe Brown. Who can forget those iconic photos of Joe below Cenotaph Corner after the first ascent, those images are the fabric of mountaineering heritage. It is crucial the missing negatives are located and put in a place of safety.

Anybody with any knowledge of their whereabouts should either contact the Mountain Heritage Trust on enquiries@mountain-heritage.org or, contact Zoe Brown on jbarchive@btinternet.com. Or leave them at the Joe Brown shop (Llanberis; Capel Curig) or The Climbers Shops (Ambleside; Stony Stratford).

Thank you – Rab Carrington

Descending from the summit of Pico de Aneto – Photo Tony Westcott

This year’s meet was promoted as “a change from the usual 4000m peak areas” and judging from the feedback from the 36 who attended the meet, this was a major reason for visiting Benasque. AC members were joined by members from ABMSAC, CC, FRCC, SMC, LSCC, Wayfarers, Yeovil MC and PC, with many accompanied by spouses and partners, plus three promising under-18s.

The meet was based at Camping Ixeia, some 4km north of Benasque and 12km south of the French/ Spanish border, by the banks of the Rio Esera on the GR11, surrounded by steep sided mixed woodland and craggy ridges rising to 3000m, topped by Pic De Aneto, the highest at 3404m, with extensive snow fields in spite of valley temperatures in the high 20s. Recommendations from Jeff Harris, who recently completed all the Pyrenees 3000s, and Cathy O’Dowd, lived up to expectations of a wide range of rock climbing, alpine mountaineering and valley walking amongst spectacular scenery with hanging valleys, impressive cascades and tarns. Even the extensive skiing area at Cerler is set in a landscape of grassy alpine meadows and surprised us with its extensive rock faces at Vall de l’Ampriu providing a wealth of bolted and trad, single and multi-pitch rock routes on slabs and impressive crack lines at all grades.

Campsite manager Miguel and his team were excellent hosts, very easy-going, full of helpful information and happily organised our two weekend happy-hour get-togethers.

The border peaks of Tuca de Salvaguardia (2738m) and Pico Sacroux (2672m), both on ancient trading routes between Zargoza and Luchon, were popular walking peaks with great views. Initial forays on the western side in the Posets-Maladeta Park explored the GR11.2 up through the lakes of the Vall de Perramo. More ambitious multi-day routes further up the Estos valley took in Pico de Perdiguero (3221m) and Pico de Posets (3375m). With knowledge came confidence to push single-day routes using 04.30 buses from the Estos stop with ascents including a PD N-S traverse of Aneto, a D- traverse of the Tempestades ridge to Aneto and the multi pitch trad route Y La Marta Sin Venia (grade V) in the beautiful Vall de Remune.

Brian Shackleton, climbing with Helen Brown, describes their most enjoyable day as the ascent of the Pico de Posets by the Espalda Ridge (PD, sections of grade II). They approached from the Angel Orus Hut in the Vall de Grist via the GR11.2 and joined the ridge at Pavots o Tucon Royo (3124m). The ridge traverses the 3 summits of Las Espadas (3332m), followed by exposed scrambling over Tuca de Llardaneta and Tuqueta Roya (3273m) before the final easy ascent up scree to Pico de Posets (3375m). They followed the normal route down the south ridge and the Rue Royale snow slopes back to rejoin the GR11.2 to the hut.

A new location, much enjoyed by all, much less-developed and cheaper than the more popular alpine areas, very welcoming locals and well worth visiting if you haven’t already.

Tony Westcott

Kate looking cool

The 2019 family meet convened on the Count House on Sat 27th July. This meet remains an annual pilgrimage for those involved, furthermore since it has been running for 40 years or more it is remarkable that so many generations have & continue to enjoy it.

The usual activities were enjoyed by all which included plenty of climbing by parents & children alike. The usual areas were visited including Chair Ladder, Cain Barra, Sennan & of course Bosigran. This year like last we had a day at the Lizard with local expert Dave Hope (thanks again Dave). Everyone particularly enjoyed the adventurous nature of the Lizard climbing routes which had had few previous ascents. Paul Headland and Ben Pearce led a group of young people on a coasteering trip around the base of Bosigran which included lots of scrambling round rocks and jumping into rock pools.

Other activities included an outside production of Romeo & Juliet in Penlee Park by Heartbreak Productions. Morvah Pastival, visits to the beach, running around the coastal paths & moor round the Count House. One night a few of the teenagers biviied out, they avoided the rain, but were less than enthusiastic when a snail decided to find refuge in a sleeping bag. Either the young people ate fewer pancakes this year or the adults over estimated pancake batter quantities because the day after pancake day we had so much batter we had a communal meal of toad-in-the-hole for 20!

See you all next year (the dates for next year are Saturday 25th July until Saturday 8th August 2020)!

Astrid Saxby

We regret to announce that long term member Reg Pillinger died on the 14th August. We offer our condolences to Mary Nichol, his family and friends.

The Celebration of Reg’s Life will be held at 2.30pm on Wednesday 28th August at Oakley Wood Crematorium, Oakley Wood Road, Bishops Tachbrook, Leamington Spa, CV33 9QP. All friends are welcome. There will be a gathering afterwards, and further details are available if you wish to come. Please email Jackie Meldrun as soon as possible if you’re able to attend, so they can cater accordingly. (Awaiting email address – please reply to this email and your Web Manager will forward your message).

Reg’s family would very much appreciate your help in gathering memories, photos and anecdotes to use in a slide show at the gathering, and more importantly, to keep as a permanent record of the life of this wonderful man. A Dropbox has been set up for people to send in photographs and anecdotes:

https://www.dropbox.com/request/JBFXlWuXP3yPFjxsIwvR

(We have included instruction on how to use Dropbox at the end of this email.)

Please note that we have requested family flowers only. We have however chosen the John Muir Trust with the aim of ‘adopting’ as many acres of one Scotland’s iconic mountain – Schiehallion – as possible, in order to help this superb charity protect and preserve and introduce future generations to our amazing wild places.

Should you wish to make donation, please use this link. You will find a lovely picture of Reg on his final Munro.

https://www.givey.com/regpillinger

We hope to see as many of Reg’s friends on the 28th August as can attend. (Please note that when approaching the crematorium follow the signs for the crematorium, not the village).

With fond memories and much sadness,

Josie Kilner

Instructions on how to use Dropbox for photos and anecdotes

1. Follow this link:
   https://www.dropbox.com/request/JBFXlWuXP3yPFjxsIwvR
2. Click “Choose From Computer”
3. Select the document you wish to upload
4. Press Upload

Photo David Medcalf

Hello folks, on Saturday 10th August it was the Wake for Smiler, with lots of CC members ‘of a certain age’ in attendance. It was a really good night and we were well entertained with photos and stories of Smiler, with the highlights being two great presentations, one by Wink Wilkinson on Smiler’s beginnings and subsequent life, and the other by Steve Long on a trip with Smiler that included the Lotus Flower Tower and The Nose – a rare combination, I think!

I recorded the various speakers for the Archives and on FaceBook are some feeble photos from the evening. However, the good news is that Wink Wilkinson has provided a video of his presentation, with an excellent ‘voice over’, for the CC Archives and for members to see if they wish below (It is a large video so be patient on loading). It’s professionally done and well worth watching! If any climber’s life needed documenting like this, it was Smiler’s – he will be very much missed.

David Medcalf

Claude Davies with his long time partner Joe Brown – Photo Derek Walker

We regret to announce that Claude Davies died on Saturday 31st August at East Cheshire Hospice, although the cancer took hold very quickly, Claude died peacefully. We offer our condolences to his family and friends.

Claude was a very active member and held a number of Committee positions including Hut Booking Secretary and Hon. Treasurer.

The funeral has now been arranged for Thursday 12th September at Saint James’ Church, Taxal, High Peak SK23 7DY, at 11 a.m. for the service and burial. Betty has asked for the service to be a celebration of Claude’s life and therefore black tie is not necessary. A wake will follow at Disley Golf Club, Stanley Hall Lane, Disley, Cheshire, SK12 2JX.

Kind regards – Phil & Nigel Davies

Ynys Ettws, Snowdonia

ADVANCE NOTICE – ROAD CLOSURE – LLANBERIS PASS

The road from Pont y Gromlech up to Pen y Pass will be closed for re-surfacing work from 08.00 to 18.00 hrs every day for three weeks commencing on Thursday 26th September.

While this work is ongoing, anyone visiting Ynys Ettws and Cwm Glas Mawr between these hours will have to approach from Nant Peris.

The meet started well with a full turnout in jovial mood which carried on the whole week.

We had two social events through the week the first was the usual barbecue with guests from the Pinnacle Climbing Club and friends of the CC and FRCC staying locally.

The second was a superb  Raclette Evening organised by Hazel (yes chef) Jonas from the FRCC.

As for the climbing it is fair to say the weather was inclement at times, routes we’re climbed every day for the patient or the ones in the know ranging from severe to E5. Also Tom and Scott had a caving trip and took some amazing photos.

On a personal note I would like to say it was an absolute pleasure to have an input into the running of this meet and a big thank you to all that attended and made it the success it was special thanks to Tony for organising the FRCC side of things to Hazel (yes chef) Jonas for all the hard work she put into the Raclette evening, a whole days prepping and a full night instruction, Peri and Rikki for looking after the official side of things, Tom, Amy, Scott, Emilie, Pete (Dave), Duncan and Michal who kept the teem entertained with their music, banter and knowledge on foraging (stealing food).

Next year Debbie and I will be organising the meet just to guarantee our places.

Paul Scott

AL ALVAREZ, rock-climber and man-of-letters. BMC Conference, Buxton March 2nd. 1974
ref: 2825/B/11
© JOHN.CLEARE/ Mountain.Camera Picture Library

We regret to announce that Al Alvarez died on Monday 23rd September. We offer our condolences to his family and friends.

Al was a member of the Club for many years. As well as a rock climber Al was a writer, critic and poetry editor of the Observer best known for The Savage God, a meditation on literary suicide. An Obituary has been published in the Guardian …

AL ALVAREZ, writer, critic, poet and rock-climber, fights his way up ” MPP” – a very hard climb on the crag of Dinas Mot high above the Llanberis Pass in the heart of Snowdonia, North Wales. June 27. 1965.
©JOHN.CLEARE/MOUNTAIN.CAMERA Picture Library